Dubai
Dubai was a welcome change of pace after Egypt. We moved from a place obsessed with the past to a city focused on the future. From ancient temples and deserts to large malls and man-made beaches. From people begging for money to people blowing it like there is no tomorrow.
Dubai was pretty high on my list of cities to visit. I remember in high school learning about the city with a 7-star hotel, an indoor ski resort, and Ferrari police cars. So I was really excited to see what it was like here.
We knew Dubai was going to be expensive, but we’ve become pretty good at traveling on a budget. So we decided to try and be a little more low-key than the average Dubai tourist. We booked an Airbnb instead of a penthouse and took the metro instead of renting a McLaren. You know… not making it rain, but making it sprinkle. But being the Dubai Dave Ramsey ended up being harder than we thought.
Our game plan was almost flawless. We booked our Airbnb in Business Bay, centrally located next to the Burj Khalifa, the Dubai Mall, and the metro. I figured this way, we could avoid the Uber charges by walking to see all the sights. Then when we wanted to get to other parts of the city we could hop on and off the metro as needed.
However, once we got there, we learned exploring on foot was not only difficult, it felt like the city was deliberately built so you can't. Everything is miles apart, sidewalks randomly disappear, and walls or gates block what should be normal street crossings. You think you can quickly cross over a river or road, but then you find out the nearest pedestrian bridge is five miles away. Also, the metro is only sort of helpful. It is basically one line running through the middle of the city. Better than nothing, but you still end up walking a lot after you get off.
We didn’t let that get us down though. We like to walk and have averaged over 7 miles a day on the trip. A few extra steps weren’t going to bring us down…
Ultimately, our Airbnb was what caused our spirits to deflate. The place we booked looked great on the website, but when we arrived, it did not match the pictures, there was no hot water, and a sewage smell was coming out of the A/C. We complained to the host, but in Dubai they don’t really subscribe to the “customer is always right” mindset, so we had to prove everything with photos. Finally, after sending enough evidence, they sent in a team to fix it.
While they were fixing the smell, they busted a pipe and flooded the apartment. The host didn’t think it was a big deal, he said we could wear shoes and it would “dry up soon”. We explained that we weren’t interested in that. Maybe we’re too high brow, I don’t know.
The full story is long and dramatic, but after fighting with the hosting company and the Airbnb customer service team, we decided to cut our losses and get a hotel.
Booking a hotel last-minute hurt our budget a little, but after we did, our trip completely turned around for the better. Once we had a good place to stay, we were able to start enjoying the city.
One thing we noticed about Dubai was you have to travel a little different here, it's not like every other city. Normally, we wander around neighborhoods and find local spots that look good for lunch or dinner. In Dubai, that doesn't really work. There are not many local places to find around the main areas of the city. They spent a lot of time and money to build these world-class malls and complexes so everything, including food, is housed inside them.
We were really surprised at how many famous restaurants from around the world had locations in Dubai. Places like Le Relais de l’Entrecôte from Paris and Bread Ahead from London. Then some American classics: Texas Roadhouse, Hardee’s, and Krispy Kreme. We usually avoid food we can get back home, but after five months away, we were excited to get back to our roots. Shake Shack and Chipotle have never tasted better.
To be fair, there are some exceptions. One morning near Kite Beach, we wandered a bit and found Air Specialty Coffee, which ended up being our favorite coffee spot of the entire trip. They also made the best chocolate chip cookie according to Kaitlyn. So exploring can pay off, but it’s definitely not the norm.
Another thing that we did not realize until we arrived, is that very few people in the city are UAE citizens. The city is full of people from other parts of the world that run the day-to-day. The locals are not working in construction, driving taxis, or cooking in the restaurants. For that, they bring in a lot of labor, most of which are from India. Indians make up more than 50% of the population in the city.
Dubai also has a weird obsession with world records. The first place we visited was a coffee shop holding the record for the most expensive cup of coffee sold in the world. Right after that, we ate at the world’s cheapest Michelin-starred meal (which balanced each other well). They had advertising all over the city showing off the water park with the most slides, the world’s deepest indoor pool, the world’s biggest Ferris wheel, and more. Dubai is out here breaking records that no one else is even going for.
One morning, we decided to go to the top of the Burj Khalifa (aka the world’s tallest building…see what I mean). We chose the sunrise slot since the internet told us that was the best time to see it. The internet was right on this one. The views were incredible. It was really cool to see the skyline go from dark to light as the city wakes up. The 4 am alarm was tough but totally worth it and we would highly recommend.
Our biggest takeaway from Dubai is this: if you are going to come, spend the money and “ball out.” Rent the cool car and stay in the nice hotel. The economical trip to Dubai just isn’t worth coming halfway around the world for. If you stay outside the main zones to save money, you will just end up spending half your time in taxis anyway. We also found there is not much reward for wandering the road less traveled. Dubai was built for a curated experience and it is best if you just accept it and follow along. We gave in a few times and went out one night to the Atlantis Royal, had dinner and a few overpriced cocktails, and it actually ended up being one of our favorite nights.
You might have figured out by now, Dubai was not a place we fell in love with, but it was a place we are really glad we saw. It is very impressive, a little strange, and certainly unlike anywhere else we have been.
Places we loved:
Now, before it gets too cold, we are flying to Beijing.
Ni hao China!
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